Australia

My home away from home...

In front of my apartment in Gold Coast after a storm. No filter necessary.

In front of my apartment in Gold Coast after a storm. No filter necessary.

Ocean pool of Bondi Beach, Sydney.

Ocean pool of Bondi Beach, Sydney.

A couple of semi-iconic places.

A couple of semi-iconic places.

The most easterly point in Australia - Byron Bay Lighthouse

The most easterly point in Australia - Byron Bay Lighthouse

My kryptonite: potato wedges with aioli and sweet chili sauce.

My kryptonite: potato wedges with aioli and sweet chili sauce.

Endless sand dunes of Morton Island

Endless sand dunes of Morton Island

Airlie Beach - Gateway into the Great Barrier Reef

Airlie Beach - Gateway into the Great Barrier Reef

Whitehaven Beach from above - Whitsunday Islands

Whitehaven Beach from above - Whitsunday Islands

Whitehaven Beach from below...a dream come true.

Whitehaven Beach from below...a dream come true.

The funk of Melbourne streets and alleys

The funk of Melbourne streets and alleys

12 Apotscles - Great Ocean Road, Victoria

12 Apotscles - Great Ocean Road, Victoria

Loch Ard Gorge - Great Ocean Road, Victoria

Loch Ard Gorge - Great Ocean Road, Victoria

Burleigh Heads Beach...a daily occurrence 

Burleigh Heads Beach...a daily occurrence 

Coolangatta coastline

Coolangatta coastline

Mount Warning - the first place to see the sun rise in Australia. A race to the top.

Mount Warning - the first place to see the sun rise in Australia. A race to the top.

Vietnam - Your Complete Guide

A Look into Each City, How to Eat, Where to Stay, and Transportation Options

After spending a few months backpacking in Southeast Asia, I’ve concluded that Vietnam was my favorite country in the region for several reasons. I fell in love with the vigorous and hospitable locals, the hustle and bustle of each city, the flavorful cuisine, the rich – and very depressing history, and the relaxed countryside. Spending only 17 days there wasn’t nearly enough time to see and do all that I wanted, but all the more reason to go back! Here is your complete travel guide of the country that stole my heart.

City-by-City

Hanoi – The capital, and largest city in Vietnam, is usually where backpackers first begin their trip. The colorful and rich culture here is the perfect introduction to the country as you will never run out of things to do. Stroll through the Old Quarter (and try not to get run over by motos) and engage in the street food and markets, and head to the French Quarter where you’ll find cafes, shops, and local restaurants. Other key cites in Hanoi include Hoan Kiem Lake situated in the center of the city for a little quiet and greenery, the very moving Hoa Lo Prison (nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton by US prisoners of war during the war in Vietnam), and the Ho Chi Minh Complex, taking about half a day to complete, displaying emperor Ho Chi Minh’s burial site, his former home, and a museum, all paying refuge to his life.

Sapa – A few hours north of Hanoi (almost bordering with China) sits a very picturesque Sapa, known for their village homestays and beautiful trekking tours. A couple days here would suffice, but you’ll kick yourself for leaving this extremely gorgeous local experience. It’s a winding ride up a mountain to arrive in Sapa, but scenic nonetheless. The rolling hills and rice fields are the main draw, and there are plenty of trekking, cycling, and motorbike tours to join in order to immerse yourself in the landscape. Change it up a bit and instead of booking a hostel with other travelers, it’s easy to book a homestay for a more local experience. Doing this is cheaper, and you’ll also learn a little Vietnamese as well as eat home cooked meals served by your eager-to-please host.

Halong Bay – There is no way to describe Halong Bay other than purely breathtaking. As a Unesco World Heritage Site and wonder of the world, the bay features thousands of limestone islands and cliffs immerging from the turquoise sea. You can easily book all kinds of tours here out of Hanoi that range from one day to much longer, booze cruises, snorkeling, and kayaking. If you want to come here solo without other tourists, be sure to take a boat tour of the bay and explore the caves and grottoes, and head over to Cat Ba Island a bit off the coast for trekking in Cat Ba National Park, kayaking, and watching some of the most amazing sunsets that you’ll ever lay eyes on.

Phong Nha – Another breathtaking town located in north-central Vietnam, Phong Nha itself isn’t more than a few blocks long, but it’s surrounded by stunning mountains. The main draw here are cave treks, and it boasts the world’s largest cave, discovered only in the 1990s. There are several other caves to explore in the area, including the very popular half day Dark Cave Experience. This includes zip lining, an amazing tour of inside the cave, kayaking, and more water activities. The caves, as well as hiking and trekking, are a bit outside of town, so renting a motorbike would be easiest to hit all that you want, and you’ll also have free reign to stop and photograph all of the amazing landscapes.

Hue – Another beautiful city situated on the Song Huong River, Hue is one of the most cultural cities that you’ll experience in Vietnam. There are numerous palaces, pagodas, and temples to explore which can be done in a few days. The Citadel is surrounded by moats which call for a very photogenic scenery. Once inside, the Imperial Enclosure is an enormous complex of the former Nguyen emperors which cannot be missed. Allocate up to a full day to explore the tombs, palaces, and architectural beauty inside the Imperial Enclosure. Cross the bridge to the eastern side of the Song Huong River, and you’ll find gorgeous parks and a boardwalk with cafes and restaurants, boats along the river, locals selling produce, and people enjoying the greenery away from the noisy traffic of the city. A bit further east is the backpacker’s district and touristy restaurants and bars.

Danang – A bit off the beaten track, Danang makes a great day trip and is home to miles of coastline and beaches that you can call your own for a day. The Han riverfront is also great for walking and enjoying the scenery.

Hoi An – Every traveler’s favorite spot in Vietnam, and for good reason. Hoi An has everything you could want in a city: winding cobblestone roads with boutiques, cafes, and restaurants, a colorful night market, great nightlife, and picturesque beaches. It’s another place that you’ll kick yourself for leaving because of the plethora of activities. Be sure to wander through the old town which is home to hundreds of tailor shops, custom making ANY kind of clothing or shoes you would like, for amazing prices, with the option to ship anywhere in the world. There are several museums and palaces within the old town, as well as the night market, that shouldn’t be missed either. If you want to head for the beach for the day, just out of town are An Bang and Cua Dai, both up and coming areas for tourism, and both great opportunities for a quiet afternoon in the sun.

Nha Trang – This small beach town is the Miami of Vietnam, home to 5 star hotels and resorts, nightclubs, and tourists everywhere. For a relaxing couple of days, there are snorkeling tours off of the coast in the crystal blue waters, and beautiful walks along the beaches. If you want a more local experience, stay at a hostel or guesthouse, but the area in general is very built up with brand-named hotels and restaurants.

Dalat – Another picturesque, gorgeous town in the mountains that you’ll never want to leave. The streets are very winding and a bit hard to navigate, but you will find your way nonetheless. The main draw here is the trekking and canyoning tours and excursions that can easily be booked through your hostel or a tour company. Renting a motorbike for the day will also give you a fabulous taste of the hustle and bustle of the city, as well as the remote parts of the mountains. Also not to miss is the Xuan Huong Lake situated in the center of town for some relaxation, Hang Nga Crazy House (you have to see it to believe it), and Bao Dai’s Summer Palace.

Mui Ne – Known as the “Sahara of Vietnam,” Mui Ne is a beautiful stretch of sand and dunes along the coast that is hard to miss out on. Water sports such as wind and kitesurfing are popular here, but the main draw is the quad bike tours of the sand dunes. Try to go in the early evening to catch the sunset.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) – The second largest city after Hanoi and a very close look into the horrific history that the nation has faced. I was surprised at what a long way the city has come since the war – there are lots of chain restaurants, skyscrapers, and parks throughout the city. There are several districts and lots of ground to cover, but some of the best sites include the Reunification Palace, the HCMC Museum, and the Notre Dame Cathedral. Perhaps the biggest cultural draw in the city is the War Remnants Museum. The museum displays gruesome, authentic, and very biased pictures and stories against American war crimes from the war, and as an American it was incredibly hard to get through, but very informative and an absolute must-see. Outside of HCMC are the Cu Chi Tunnels which were used by the Viet Cong during the war, and also an authentic peak into Vietnam’s horrid past.

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The Mekong Delta – There is also a lot of ground to cover here, but the Mekong Delta is home to beautiful floating markets and villages, local homestays, and a very local experience. There are numerous boat tours that you can take that hit all of the floating markets and beaches, and this region is an amazing look into how much of Vietnam’s economy thrives on agriculture.

Transportation

Buses – There are no shortages on buses and you can book transportation to literally anywhere in the country. Most hostels will work with tour companies so you won’t have to go far to book your next destination. There are also tourism companies on almost every street in bigger towns, and these tend to be a bit cheaper. My best advice would be to shop around a bit to compare prices, as some vary depending on time of day of departure and type of bus. They are all very accommodating – the company you book with will more than likely pick you up from your hostel and take you to wherever the bus will be departing from. Sleeper buses are also extremely common, well-used by backpackers, and safe. Vietnam is a very long country, and the longer rides can sometimes take up to 12 hours. Don’t waste a day in transit and instead consider booking a sleeper bus. They feature two levels of decently comfortable beds and storage to keep your belongings. The best part is that you’ll save money on accommodation for a night, and you’ll wake up in the morning in an entirely new place with lots to explore! Short bus rides will be less than $10 USD and night buses are around $15-25 USD.

Motorbikes – Vietnam is known for its organized chaos traffic because there are more bikes than vehicles in the streets, and everyone is constantly fighting for space. Experienced bikers purchase bikes for $200-300 USD in either the north in Hanoi, or the south in HCMC and drive the entire country and sell the bike at the very end. This is by far the best way to see and do everything that you want, but it requires time and patience. Another option if you still want to experience a longer bike ride is to ride from Hue to Hoi An (or vice versa) via the Hoi An pass. The ride will take 4-6 hours depending on how many times you stop to take pictures (which you 100% will, it’s way too stunning of a ride to zip through quickly). If these both don’t sound safe or feasible to you, a great option is to rent bikes in each town for no more than $5 USD for 24 hours and see and do all that you want. Having a bike is definitely something to check off your bucket list in Vietnam because you will have freedom to explore, and it’s a great way to immerse yourself as a local.

Accommodation

Hostels – Hostels in Vietnam, as in all of Southeast Asia, are dirt cheap and offer you all of the features that you will want in a home. Paying around $4-6 USD per night for a dorm will give you everything you need, from a clean bed, bathroom, Wi-Fi, and usually included breakfast. If you want something a bit nicer with more features, lots of hostels have pools, a gourmet breakfast, family dinners, free laundry, and more comfortable beds ranging from $7-10 USD per night – still a bargain! I use the Hostelworld app to book all of my hostels. Here, you can see what the hostel offers, look at pictures, and read reviews. You will gain great insight into what atmosphere you’re looking for just by reading the reviews; if you want a crazy party nightclub, the relaxed quiet hostel, or something in between, there will definitely be something to suite you.

Homestays – Homestays are the best option if you want to get away from Westerners and into a more relaxed and local atmosphere. Most hosts speak decent English, so no need to worry about the language barrier! Homestays are cheap as well, and you shouldn’t pay more than $6 USD for one, and they’ll include home-cooked meals, and a bed and bathroom.

Hotels – More expensive, but still a bargain, there are plenty of hotels and private rooms that you can book right before coming to each city. Most are very nice and include a comfortable bed, your own private bathroom, Wi-Fi, and a gourmet breakfast every morning.

Food

I absolutely ate my way through Vietnam, and you will want to do the same, because the cuisine here is known as one of the best in the world. There are plenty of touristic restaurants all serving pizza and burgers, but that’s not the reason you came to Vietnam – eat local! If you’re eating at street stalls and small local restaurants, you will not spend more than $1.50 USD on a single meal – if you do, then you’re either ordering several dishes or going to very touristy spots. Here are some amazing local favorites that you’ll want to recreate as soon as you’re home:

Pho – Pronounced “fuh” is a noodle dish absolutely everywhere, and served at all hours. You can usually choose between chicken, beef, and sometimes a vegetarian tofu, and it’s loaded with vegetables and lots of noodles.

Com – Com is a popular rice dish that comes with whatever is freshly cooked that day poured on top. This can include chicken, beef, vegetables, noodles, and tofu. It’s a very filling dish for very cheap!

Banh Mi – You will die over banh mi. A fresh baguette is used to create a sandwich loaded with beef or chicken and vegetables, with lots of sauces added on top. There are also vegetarian versions of banh mi with tofu and mock meats.

Drink

Coffee – Drinking coffee anywhere else in the world is now a disappointment; Vietnamese coffee is by far the richest and most fresh coffee I have ever tasted. It’s very strong and thick, and a local way to drink it is by pouring condensed milk in the bottom, and doing a pour-over technique with your choice of coffee bean. Also try ordering an “egg coffee.” It’s essentially a thick, creamy latte and prepared with egg yolks, sugar, and condensed milk. Depending on where you buy the coffee, it shouldn’t be more than $1 USD.

Beer – Tiger and Saigon are Vietnam’s local beers, starting at 25 cents USD for a glass. Going out won’t burn a hole in your budget as more popular licensed beers and spirits are equally as cheap.

A Backpacker's Guide to Months of Travel (written on 6/24/15)

Purchasing and packing your backpack

Backpacking; no set route, just buying a one way ticket and seeing where the world leads you. How do you pack for a trip that you may not necessarily have a planned route for? The key is to be strategic, and this begins with buying the correct backpack.

The Backpack-

A couple months before taking off, I started researching backpacks online on outdoor goods websites, as well as Amazon to compare prices and brands. I ended up waiting and went into LL Bean and was fitted for the backpack. Being fitted in person is very important as opposed to purchasing one online because there are different backpack options for different heights, and the woman at LL Bean knew exactly what would work well for me since I’m a bit taller.

Backpacks also hold different capacities and you want to take the length of your trip into consideration before purchasing. I figured that I’d be traveling for at least 3 months, and I purchased a 65 liter backpack which has been fantastic. There are so many odds and ends to it that I haven´t had time to figure out yet, but there are plenty of adjustable straps for comfort and to conform to your body. The first time I weighed it at the airport, I was shocked that it was only 25 pounds. I have also been paying a bit extra to check the backpack on every flight I have been on, but you can even tighten all the straps so that it compresses and fits in the overhead compartment on airplanes so that you don´t have to pay the extra fees!

It may seem daunting to carry the weight on your back for a few months, but you’ll thank yourself later that you didn’t bring a rolling suitcase, they are an absolute pain, especially if you plan on camping, being on beaches, or on rougher terrain in the mountains.

What to Pack-

Since it’s going to be summer time in the places that I’ll be traveling in, it was easier to pack and save room with lighter clothing. It’s also good to take the time of year into consideration before buying your one way ticket. Though accommodations and flights are more expensive in warmer months and this is usually when people go backpacking, it’s harder to pack for the off-season because of colder and more unpredictable weather.

When I packed for my trip this summer, I laid everything out that I thought would fit. As I packed my backpack though, I quickly realized that I didn’t need about a third of what I originally laid out. Less is more, and you’ll be repeating clothes regardless, so pack very lightly.

Pack clothes that you can mix and match. Neutral colors are also very important! For example, I packed black and white short sleeve tops, and black and white tank tops. These easily go with the 2 Nike athletic shorts I packed, as well as the 2 nicer shorts for walking around cities or going out (see pictures below). I also brought 3 Nike and Lululemon dry-fit shirts for runs and hikes.

Consider a country’s customs before entering. I was just in Morocco for 2 weeks where the culture is very conservative, and I’ll be in India next week with similar customs. I purchased a long skirt that covers my knees in Morocco, as well as a sundress that also covers my knees and shoulders. Researching a country beforehand will save you lots of time and money on shopping for appropriate clothes, as well as stares from locals if you don’t match their customs.

Also in my backpack:

A light Patagonia fleece pullover
Lighter sweatshirt from Gap that’s also nice enough to wear around a city or out at night
Pair of inexpensive jeans
Pair of Lululemon leggings
A romper I purchased in Australia
Sundress to wear to the beach and also out at night
Bathing suit from Forever 21
An inexpensive hand towel and shower towel
Flip flops for hostel showers and the beach
Nicer sandals
Chaco sandals for hikes
Asics gym shoes for runs.

And I still have tons of room! Being strategic with mixing and matching, as well as considering where and when you will be traveling are also key factors. Your backpack will be your lifeline for your experience, and as I love to tell people, “I’m carrying the team on my back.”

Morocco - Adjusting to a Male Dominated Culture

As our 2 week loop around Morocco is coming to an end on Saturday, I have mixed emotions about leaving and moving on to the next adventure. First, this country is beautiful (benin in Arabic) by every definition of the term, from the hustle and bustle of the chaotic cities and medinas, the fresh air high up in the mountains, the deafening silence and feeling of being the only human in existence in the dunes of the Sahara, and the relaxed lifestyle of the Atlantic coast. Morocco has so much to offer, and I feel that it's a very underrated tourist destination. However, a central part to the Arab culture, which I'm having a very hard time adjusting to, is the overriding power that men have over women and how hidden women are both literally and figuratively in society. These ideals make leaving Morocco much easier, and even give me a twinge of excitement, because I'm so over feeling like livestock. 

Everything I've read and heard about this country have fascinated me forever - the lifestyle, the food, the city life, landscapes, the Sahara, etc. I was fully aware beforehand that this is a very conservative culture, and to be sure to pack and wear appropriate clothes (i.e. long skirts, pants, and sweaters even in the 85+ degree heat). What I didn't expect was the gawking, long gross stares, and crude remarks made by the vast majority of men every single time we stepped foot on the street.  There were so many amazing locals that we've met in this country, so open and welcoming, passionate about their country's people and history, and always ready to offer us a glass of mint tea with open arms. I loved that they wanted to create the best impression on two American female backpackers just eager to discover and learn about a completely different lifestyle. Many instances changed my opinion about this however. One night after taking a cooking class accompanied by a fantastic dinner (I'm now a pro tagine maker!) in Chefchaouen, a beautiful town in the mountains, we were walking in the dark just trying to make our way home, when we passed by a traditional cafe. Side note: around 7pm until late at night, it is traditional that men gather at outdoor cafes to drink mint tea with their friends with absolutely no women in sight at the establishments. There is really NOTHING for women to do publicly after about 8pm because restaurants start closing down, and what Americans would perceive as a bar is only allowed for men...unless you're a prostitute. Anyways, as we walked by a normal male-only cafe, one of the men called out "sluts!" as we walked by in English, not even in Arabic. I kept walking, but Michelle, being the instigator that she is, turned around and gave him the "what the hell?" look, to which he responded with the "yes, I'm talking to you" look. Yes we were out after dark and the only women on the street, but excuse me? We weren't doing anything suggestive except walking home. This really irked me and unfortunately will leave a bad impression about the country on me, despite all of the beautiful people we met.

Women are simply hidden all the time, behind their hijab scarves, in their homes, we rarely saw any female store/shop owners, no waitresses, only maids at our casbahs and restroom attendants. This seriously makes me cringe, I'm not a commodity.  Anyone who knows me well knows that I'm not the biggest kids person, but I feel that I connected with children we came across in Morocco more so than anyone else. While wandering through the absolutely insane medina in Fes, we saw a classroom of seven 2-6 year olds and all stuffed into the room to hear them sing to us. They sweetly chanted verses from the Koran, and sang twinkle twinkle, and Foire Joque. It was honestly an emotional experience because these boys and girls seemed so innocent, their minds not jaded by gender responsibilities and stereotypes yet. Another moment that struck me was in the Sahara Desert. After our camel trek to camp for the night, we hiked up a few dunes and sand boarded down and did this for a couple hours while watching the sunset from the top. It was gorgeous, the colors lighting up the sky and casting shadows in the sand that we could see for ages. Then a young boy and girl joined us at the top, but kept their distance. They played with a ball, and the boy had a bag full of small toy camels. They were part of the Berber camp down below (the indigenous people of Northern Africa) and I was immediately drawn to them. I went over to them and started saying small words in English which they didn't understand obviously, they don't go to school and only know the Berber language and maybe a little Arabic and French. I helped the boy line up his toy camels and preceded to take probably my favorite picture I've ever captured on my GoPro which is below. Again, it was their innocence to the world that captivated me, and I'm curious to find out how and when their lives will be shaped by their culture's ideals eventually. 

Traveling to another country that is different in culture, ideals, and religion is a step that many people don't take, but when you do, you must be sensitive to everything, including dress, customs, habits, and much more. Immersing yourself means becoming one with the culture you're in, and adapting to their beliefs. I've been trying since day one in Morocco, and I still am, but I just can't adjust to how aggressive the men are and the submissiveness of women. Leaving our hotels to explore the cities became a project of watching our backs at all times. Talking to locals in bars is one of my favorite things to do when traveling, and we weren't allowed to participate in any of this. My personality completely clashes with their cultural beliefs. Though I did come across some great people, it was hard to fully immerse myself here, simply because I just wasn't allowed to. At least the children we played with were accepting. Cheers to hoping that Portugal is different.